For his debut summer collection, Ermenegildo Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori explored a sensual masculinity in one of the historic courtyards of Milan’s Università Statale on Friday, June 16.
Color and proportions are the first words that comes to mind when describing the collection. Sartori wasn’t afraid to play with shades of orange and pink for the brand’s spring/summer 2018 Couture collection. The delicate color palette favors natural shades of walnut, signature Vicuna, geranium, freesia, lotus, cypress and bleached aqua, while optical whites meet unexpected color flashes.
He played with proportions throughout the collection, like replacing classing shirts with deconstructed tops in various volumes, while doubled tank tops and scoop neck sweaters played with active, yet tailored, trousers and jogger.
Sartori’s studied assembly of sport-inspired clothing is enriched in this collection by oversized handmade pockets, hoods, and the iconic triple stitch logos. Fluid washed silks, century cashmere and pure mohair create a weightlessness to the collection, while mesh jacquards and intarsia leather give hints of ethereal substance.
Even the accessories indulge in the laid-back pace of the season. Technical triple stitch sandals, elasticated leather boots and iconic maxi-logo Tiziano sneakers were shown, the latter of which is immediately available for purchase. Additionally, a super-soft evolution of the brand’s Pelle Tessuta fabric is presented in new, colorful knitted effects in bags, baseball hats, and visors.
“To design a forward-looking men’s fashion wardrobe built around fluidity, freshness and color but enriched by the possibility of adding your own hint of personality and style, I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,” said Sartori.
In addition, twelve of the looks seen on the catwalk are now available to order made-to-measure in selected worldwide boutiques, with delivery scheduled within eight weeks.